The Most Versatile Studio Light Shaper
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Hello readers, I am asked from time to time which light shaper one should buy first for studio lighting. My answer is not the common one.
There are myriad light shapers available to be used with traditional flash, with strobes, and even high output continuous lights and the number of options can be confusing. I’ve already written that an umbrella should be everyone’s fist ;light shaper because they are so easy to use and so versatile, but as we enter the miasma of soft box systems, the options increase dramatically.
For this reason, my first soft box recommendation is always a strip light, and based on my experience, the largest that you can easily manage, typically a 6 ft by 1 ft or 6 ft by 18” version.
Strip Light Guidance
The strip soft box should have an opening in the rear for the light delivery system to mount. There should then be the option to add an internal diffuser about halfway in and a full diffuser at the front edge. I also recommend getting a soft grid for your strip soft box for when you want to constrain the spill of the light.
A strip light will rotate around the light mount, so you can place it at any angle. It is also very lightweight and can with use of a boom stand be “flown” up and over your subject. The use of a knuckle on your stand mount also allows for angling the light relative to your subject. As we are talking about studio work, I strongly recommend a C Stand Complete. C Stands are not especially transportable, but are massively stable and will only tip if you fail to do your job properly. They do not bend or flex creating hazards for your subject.
I know that strip lights are available smaller. I have made the mistake of buying smaller strip lights thinking them preferable for smaller subjects or smaller lighting requirements.
I was wrong. I do not recommend small strip boxes. I have a few that I purchased that now gather dust on the studio hangers.
The Non Issue of Extra Spill
One of the pieces of rationale for a smaller light is that a larger soft box will throw more light, perhaps where you do not want it. I find it far more space conserving and cost effective to take some foam core that is black one side and white on the other and cut it to fit the width of the soft box. I can then attach the foam core, black side out to the box with gaffer tape should I need to reduce the longitudinal light spill. It’s more convenient than having multiple strip boxes in different sizes. You can always make a large box smaller, but never the other way.
True Versatility
Many people think that strip lights are only useful as side lights. While they are certainly awesome in this way, when moved in front and slightly off angle, they work beautifully for full length, torso and headshots. You get a nice level of contrast that reduces the need for extra masks and dark cards. If your goal is high key lighting on a set is your goal, that is a different use case and you are looking for a different thing. Strip lights are also excellent for automotive and mechanical photography and superb for home improvement and garden lighting. In this way, they give you the directional control that you will not get from an umbrella, an octagon or traditional rectangular soft box.
In the case that you do not have a strip light, I recommend this version from Godox. It is 13.8 by 63 inches and includes a Bowens style speed ring. It also includes a soft grid.
If you have a common hotshoe flash I will insert a link for that as well.
Godox S Type Speedlight Adapter
If you have a strobe that uses another mount just search on B&H for the appropriate mount. For example, I use Profoto strobes so I would use this mount ring.
If you do not have a C Stand Complete, consider this one from B&H’s Impact lineup. It is has a turtle base, a boom arm and a grip arm (that most call a knuckle). There is also included a baby pin to mount your light on either directly for a strobe or via the bracket above for the speedlight. There’s also a camera plate, although it’s not used in the described scenarios.
You will of course find a variety of opinions on this subject and I am sure that the writer’s opinion is correct for that person, presuming of course that the writer is actually a photographer and not just writing to fill space.
Lighting Examples
I have used Set A Light for years to quickly mock up lighting setups. I used it again for the following images that are head and upper torso portraits using a single strip soft box. There is a generic light on the background to create some separation but that’s not the point.
Each example has the camera the same distance from the model, and there are no changes between “shots” in the model’s position and pose. For the side light example, the camera height has been dropped about 6 inches.
Each sample uses a 500ws strobe into a 30cm x 140cm (about 1ft x 5 ft) using both the inner and outer diffuser. I moved the light on its stand into position to achieve the different lighting. That’s it. You can clearly see that you can do a partial body shot with a full length strip light, and the reality is that the larger light surface area produces a softer light.
light in front of model, offset from camera sightline 30 degrees to Camera right
light horizontal up and over model firing downwards
Light to model’s left nearly split light position
You can see from these very quick set up examples just how versatile a single strip light can be. It’s why I recommend it as your first soft box type light shaper.
Thanks as always for reading. If you shop at B&H Photo Video please use the link on the main page. It costs you nothing and pays me a small commission. Until next time, I’m Ross Chevalier and I bid you peace.
