Useful Tools for New Photographers
/As we become more involved in photography, we might be inclined to wander through camera stores, or read online articles and even <gasp> paper based periodicals that talk about gear. How do we know what is useful and what is not?
Remote Control
If your camera is less than three years old, it probably has some kind of networking built in. Some connect to public WiFi (scary) and some generate their own local WiFi hotspot (less scary). Then there is typically an app, for a smartphone or a tablet on iOS or Android that lets you control your camera remotely.
If your camera supports this, it behooves you to learn to set it up and get connected because being able to control your camera wirelessly and remotely is an enormously enabling factor.
Older cameras may have a stupidly expensive WiFi adapter or take an SD card in the second slot to enable WiFi if it’s not built in. Alternatively there are third party apps that do this with their own little receiver which is usually a micro WiFi router. Those apps tend to be more manufacturer agnostic. I used one called CamRanger for years that worked great.
Another alternative is a radio based remote that will trigger the shutter and handle long exposures as well as doing interval shots. Camera makers have these at ridiculous prices. I have inexpensive units under the Hahnel and Cactus brands that work very well at up to 100 ft away. They don’t change settings, they are just radio based trigger systems and do that job well.
Your camera may include or support an optical remote that works via Infrared. More correctly it will work only sometimes and you will likely need to stand on your head and point your left big toe at Jupiter to get them to work. Don’t waste time or money on anything that says optical remote. You’re welcome.
Off Camera Flash
I recently wrote about buying your first flash, and mentioned considering the tools to get the flash off camera. While bounce flash off a white ceiling is very effective, having the option to get the flash off camera completely to give you more control of direction is optimal. I have stress tested and recommend the Godox series of transmitters and receivers. They are available for pretty much any camera system, fully support TTL flash and you can be one and done for around $100
Minipods, table pods etc
A tripod is a necessity. A small stabilizing device will be an asset. I have a drawer full of options. I know only use one of them. It is called the Platypod. You can order them online, point your search engine at Platypod to find them. I have several in different sizes although mine are early releases, the MAX and the Ultra. The current offering is called the Extreme and is not shipping yet and replaces the Max which has been discontinued. You can still get Max units through B&H Photo Video I believe. The Ultra is smaller and suitable for lesser weights. I use mine to hold flashes or continuous lights. They take up very limited space, but be sure to get the accessory kit for your Platypod for maximum flexibility. You can mount your existing ball head to them which makes them ideal for any photographer.
Polarizing Filter
If you will shoot outside where there will be direct sun, you want a polarizer. If the sun is out, put it on. Easy to use, you just rotate the front ring until you like what you see. There’s no more to it than that and while it will rotate forever, you will see all the range of effect in one quarter turn. If you have more than one lens buy the filter that fits the lens you have with the largest front element and then buy stepping rings to use the same filter on lenses with a smaller front filter mount. No need for multiple polarizers.
For the love of photography, don’t go super cheap. A cheap polarizer is a very bad thing, whereas a decent polarizer will last you a very long time (until lost or broken) and will allow you to make better looking images immediately. Consider your polarizer from B+W or Breakthrough rather than the store house brand or pretty much any polarizer from Amazon. You want optical glass and an excellent polarizing film in the filter. There is a difference in optical performance in higher end polarized driving or fishing glasses and those from the corner gas station. That applies here too.
A Comfortable Strap
Never use the supplied strap. It has a logo all over and screams “camera available for theft” Logos are bad and only serve to inflate egos and provide free advertising. Look at a third party strap that will be comfortable all day and that will not slip if you hang your camera off a shoulder. Some people like wide straps, others prefer narrow. Whatever you like best is the right one. I personally use ThinkTankPhoto narrow straps. They are unobtrusive, and they don’t slip if I hang my camera off my shoulder with the lens pointing into the small of my back. If you are worried about slippage, consider an UpStrap. They do not slip. You can also consider a holster / clip scenario which is awesome if you want to bash your camera as you walk through doorways or beside railings. There are also carrier things that mount your camera to your chest like a baby carrier. At least they are hot AND inconvenient.
A Just Big Enough Camera Bag
Ask any seasoned photographer and he or she will tell you that the weight of the bag increases non-linearly in direct proportion to how long you are carrying it. Don’t buy a bag with more space than you absolutely need. You want some padding, but we are not transporting eggs. Cameras and lenses are pretty well built. Go as small as you can that will fit the gear that you will take with you. Note that point. You will end up with more gear than you will ever need on a single shoot over time. Keep your go bag small and light. You can have bigger bags at home for storage, but taking a big bad into the field is a recipe for pain and frustration. Some folks like slings, some like shoulder bags, some like backpacks. Whatever you like is fine, just keep it small and light.
Keep your kit as simple as possible and you will be a happier photographer. The less is more attitude wins the day, pretty much every time. Take it from a photographer who tried more is better for a long time and has successfully proven that this concept is wrong.
Do you have an idea for an article, tutorial, video or podcast? Do you have an imaging question unrelated to this article? Send me an email directly at ross@thephotovideoguy.ca or post in the comments. When you email your questions on any imaging topic, I will try to respond within a day.
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I'm Ross Chevalier, thanks for reading, watching and listening and until next time, peace.